I have a confession to make. I just surfed for the first time in 8 weeks. Yup. 8. Two full months without putting my wetsuit on. I am pretty embarrassed because I have no excuse.. no injury.. no real reason except that life and hustling simply got in the way. I don't have kids. I wasn't out of town. I didn't have Covid.. at least I don't think.
Truth be told, I actually have been struggling a lot this year since March with the advent of our first 'lockdown'. At first, the beaches were closed... and so the no-surfing mandate was really inevitable. Then, the beaches opened, and we had the world's nastiest red tide here in San Diego. It lasted for about 6 weeks.
Once that kind of cleared up, I started getting in the habit of riding my rickety beach cruiser down to the beach. Honestly, I kind of liked that part the most.... ditching the car and all.
Then, by May, our landlords sold our house out from underneath us and my bike ride to the beach disappeared. My employer decided to stop paying me, we had to move, I got a new job requiring me to be tethered to a desk and computer, and well.. it happened. I got out in the water here-and-there through the summer crowds. I cringed half the time because I really wasn't feeling the 24-7 'Covid Spring Break' vibe. Crowds aren't my thing. Wish it were different.
October came, the daylight hours dwindled... my husband and I launched our real estate company Carpenter Realty Group, and then, suddenly it was Christmas.
Today, I finally gave myself permission to stop the hustle, step away from the computer and go grab an hour's worth of knee high waves.
It was cold. The clouds were incredible, and honestly, it was the best Christmas present ever.. Just surfing with my husband. Simple as that.
Ultimately, I think when we choose a life long sport or lifestyle there are seasons. There are seasons when you're surfing 4-5 days a week and feel great. There are seasons like the one I've been going through. At the end of the day though, we all come back to the ocean.
I'm sharing this with you in case you're feeling guilty/ bad about not getting in the ocean as much as you'd wish. If you do paddle out, and it's been 'a while' be gentle on yourself as there is a high chance you may have noodle arms and the cardiovascular tenacity of a newt (speaking for myself here.. eh hem).
If any of this resonates with you, and you're interested in a little help to get you stronger and prevent injury after a 2 month (or however long hiatus), then you may want to check out our all inclusive online course package, The Whole Enchilada.
Since it's Christmas, I have this package on sale for $199.00, or 3 payments of $66.67 to help get you back on track, and get back in the water. Cheers!
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